Murray River Paddle 2016 Day 53 Tailem Bend - Point Sturt

Tailem Bend to Point Sturt

Distance to Murray Mouth from Point Sturt measured using Google Maps following the path I took to the Murray Mouth through Goolwa.

I set my alarm early so that I would be up before dawn and on the water as soon as there was sufficient light for photography. It was cold this morning, so I needed all the enthusiasm I could muster to leave the comfort of my sleeping bag. My tent was still heavy with dew when I rolled it up and put it in the hold. I hoped to at least make a start on a lake crossing, so a few things had to change today. I disconnected the battery, taped over the terminals and placed it in the hold. The solar panel cable was wound up and stowed. Today I needed a perfect seal on my deck covers, cables compromised those seals. I also wanted the least possible hindrance should I capsize and have to re-enter the boat on the lake. For that reason, my two spare water bottles also disappeared from the deck. I put the shoulder braces on my spray deck to keep it as high as possible. Finally I put my tucker bag on the deck: it doubles as a paddle float today. Despite having to do a few things twice because I had changed my system, I pushed off at 6:30.

The light was beautiful. A must rose from the water, as it does when the river is warmer than the air. It created polar-like photos. The mist moved on the surface of the water like sand grains on a sand dune. When the sun rose higher, the mist formed small chimneys into the warmer air. This only lasted for a short while, but caught my eye. I had never seen anything like that before.

It took longer than I thought to round Tailem Bend and longer than I thought to reach the lake. The bends down here make the seven mile straight near Berri look like a children's play set.

I thought I'd pull over at a boat ramp marked on my map for one last check. I also wanted to replace the bungee cords holding the solar panel and to shed a few layers as I was warming up. The boat ramp was either overgrown with willows , or a figment of someone's imagination. I changed my clothes on the water. Suddenly I was on the lake.

It looked good, even though the windmills at Wellington had had a fair spin on them. The winds were from the North, so a tailwind, which helps. I checked my maps and GPS. One last time and entered the ever widening lake. Reeds grew thickly on each side. I vividly remembered entering the lake in 2012. It was pitch black. I had navigated using google maps on my phone, which I thought was wonderful at the time. It was like a little aircraft radar screen and in the darkness the only way I knew where I should be going. The sounds of the birds was phenomenal. I at first thought they were waves on a beach, which unsettling me, as there should have been no beach anywhere near me. Today, there was no morning chorus, I entered the lake at the civilised hour of 8:45.

The advantage of going before dawn is that the lake is at its smoothest then. Some people do night crossings for the same reason. The light wind soon built waves. These were quite manageable at first, but by the time I passed Pomanda island, they began to intersect and grow. For the next 14 km I paddled in messy water. The waves reached around a metre in height, at times peaking, becoming sets of rollers, or just bounced around. They messed with my direction, my kayak ran like an egg. It took lots of concentration to keep on top of things, but I did, arriving at Narrung for a very welcome break at around midday. I was stuffed and spent a good amount of time first face planted in the lawn and then in an old armchair I found. Eventually the warming rays of the sun, lots of water and lunch did the trick and I regained my energy. A cup of tea provided by Alan and Ruth, touring from WA was the icing on the cake. I had considered camping here, but with the wind changing direction, the lake had almost flattened. I decided to make a break for Point Sturt on the other side of the lake and made it just before the weather change set it, building its own impressive waves in the process. This time I was headed into them, which I found easier.

I set up camp on Point Sturt, rather than risk the weather. Strong winds are predicted for tomorrow. If I see an opportunity to paddle, I will, otherwise Point Sturt it is for another day.

This part of the trip is about finishing the journey. It was an odd, but satisfying feeling to take my last record of bank condition (before entering the lake). Now it's about honoring the river, and all who have made this journey. It's time to paddle to the sea.